Beauty Trends

Aha or pha? discover the benefits of each one!

12 September 2021




Both have the main benefit of being able to exfoliate the skin chemically, accelerating the removal of dead cells from its surface. Although AHA and PHA have the same mechanism of action, there are differences between them that should be highlighted!

3 MINUTE READ
Words by Raquel Dias, Pharmacist; Cláudia Araújo, Product Manager
Cantabria Labs Portugal

 

AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and PHA (poly hydroxy acids) are organic molecules present in cosmetic formulations, widely recognized for their potential to respond to the main skin concerns: aging, hyperpigmentation, acne and irregular complexion.

Both have the main benefit of being able to exfoliate the skin chemically, accelerating the removal of dead cells from its surface. In this way, they promote cell renewal, even out skin tone and reduce signs of aging, such as sagging and wrinkles.

Although AHA and PHA have the same mechanism of action, there are differences between them that should be highlighted:

AHAs are small molecules that penetrate the skin quickly, ensuring visible results in a few days of use. 

The best example of this is Glycolic Acid, considered a premium ingredient in any skin routine: retexturizes, evens and brightens! Undoubtedly, AHAs represent the most powerful class of hydroxy acids and, for this reason, they can also trigger some type of skin reaction especially in the most sensitive skin. We must always keep in mind that the way each skin reacts to AHA will depend not only on its sensitivity but also on the concentrations used in cosmetic formulations.

As for PHA, they have a higher molecular weight, with a slower penetration capacity. 

This feature is beneficial especially for the most sensitive skin, being an alternative to the use of AHA since its irritating potential is practically zero. In addition, PHAs increase skin hydration levels and are excellent antioxidants. Lactobionic Acid, Maltobionic Acid and Gluconalactone are examples of PHAs extremely well tolerated by sensitive skin. Formulations with these PHAs can be safely used in situations of Rosacea, Atopy and other sensitizing skin problems such as anti-aging and moisturizing routine.

 

 

NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE CELLULAR

NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE CELLULAR
Night cream that contains in its composition 5% Glycolic Acid, 5% Maltobionic Acid and 5% Gluconalactone, the key concentrations that guarantee a continuous renewal of the skin, with consequent improvement of hydration, texture, skin tone and wrinkles. The remaining ingredients in the formula also favor collagen synthesis and protect the skin from oxidative aggression.
before and after - NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE CELLULAR

Improved Firming, Texture and Brightness
After 16 weeks of NEOSTRATA SKIN ACTIVE firming regimen

*Reference: Poster presented at the Orlando Dermatology Aesthetic & Clinical Conference, Orlando, FL, January 13-16, 2012

 

 

NEOSTRATA RESURFAC GLYCOLIC FOAMING WASH

NEOSTRATA RESURFAC GLYCOLIC FOAMING WASH


Cleansing foam that makes an active hygiene and enhances the regenerating activity of the remaining anti-aging, anti-hyperpigmentation and anti-acne treatments. This product, in addition to cleaning the face, also acts as an exfoliator, thanks to the presence of 18% Glycolic Acid and 2% Lactobionic Acid, guaranteeing a better penetration of all the other ingredients that need to cross the surface barrier of the skin to be effective.

Before and after - NEOSTRATA RESURFAC GLYCOLIC FOAMING WASH

Improved Texture
After 12 weeks of AHA/PHA regimen including FOAMING GLYCOLIC WASH

*Reference: Poster presented at the 67 th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology; San Francisco, CA; March 6-10, 2009

 

 

NEOSTRATA RESTORE REDNESS NEUTRALIZING SERUM

NEOSTRATA RESTORE REDNESS NEUTRALIZING SERUM
The anti-aging solution for sensitive skin, with Atopy or Rosacea. This serum is composed by PHA - 5% Gluconalactone and 1% Lactobionic Acid - ingredients that exert an extremely safe anti-aging action on sensitive or temporarily sensitized skin. It also has BioCalm Complex, a set of actives that reduce redness, improve skin comfort and hydration.

before and after - NEOSTRATA RESTORE REDNESS NEUTRALIZING SERUM

Improved Redness
After 12 weeks of NEOSTRATA REDNESS regimen, twice a day.

*Reference: Poster presented at the 75 th Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Orlando, FL; March 3-7, 2017

 

Discover these and other Neostrata products, a pioneer laboratory in the inclusion of AHA and PHA in their formulations - HERE




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